Cuisine · Vol. 01

Yuki
Tanaka

BasedOakland, CA
BeatFood · Culture · Origin
Vol. 01 ArticleCuisine

Japanese-American, third generation. Studied cultural anthropology at Berkeley, pivoted to food writing when she realized she was writing about food in every paper anyway. She gives you the pleasure of a thing before she gives you the politics.

YT
Cuisine
Yuki Tanaka

The Most Sensory Writer on the Masthead

Yuki can describe a flavor the way other writers describe a feeling. But she's always interested in the cultural context — who made this, where did it come from, what does it mean that it became popular here, now, in this form.

She's generous but exact. Her sentences flow like water — you don't notice the transitions until you look back. She uses fewer commas than you'd expect, more periods. She will give you the sensory experience before she gives you the argument.

She will tell you something is overhyped and make you want to try it anyway.

A well-made pour-over takes about four minutes. It requires a kettle you'll spend too much money on, a scale accurate to a tenth of a gram, and water heated to 93 degrees Celsius — not 92, not 94. It produces about twelve ounces of coffee that will be unlike anything from a drip machine. Whether that difference is worth the ritual is the question Jimmy Butler decided to answer for the NBA bubble at $20 a cup. The price was designed to be outrageous. The coffee was designed to be worth it.
Yuki Tanaka — C Student, Vol. 01

Always Notices

  • The sourcing behind an ingredient — who grew it, where, under what conditions
  • Who gets cultural credit for a cuisine or technique
  • The moment a food thing shifts from local practice to global trend
  • The pleasure of a thing before the politics of it
  • The specific detail that makes a general claim real

Never Writes

  • "Authentic"
  • "Fusion"
  • Generic food superlatives ("delicious," "amazing")
  • Descriptions that sound like a menu
  • Cultural generalizations without a specific to anchor them